13 December 2016

(Greater) Manchester - 1 - Then....

Don’t look back in anger….


 


Slip inside the eye of your mind
Don't you know you might find
A better place to play
You said that you'd never been
But all the things that you've seen
Will slowly fade away

NOEL GALLAGHER

Oasis - Don't Look Back In Anger




In 1973 I lodged in Albert Road, Levenshulme, Manchester.  




I had graduated, split up with my girlfriend from Lancaster University, been appointed to teach English at Hattersley County Comprehensive School near Hyde (which became Hattersley High School, then closed in the mid-90s), and needed to sleep somewhere.




So, having signed a contract to live in a bedsit near Manchester University, in Rusholme,  I spent three nights there, returning home from work across broken glass to a freezing room where the only company was the ticking of the gas meter.  It was ghastly.




Then I moved to stay with Tony and Tricia, trying to sleep on the floor behind their sofa.  Tony was a (minor) Liverpool poet (published, but not successful) and Trish’s moment of fame came when she was carer to Dandy Nichols in ‘In sickness and in health.’  It was not the ideal situation for someone entrusted with inspiring the next generation, so I moved into a bedsit on Albert Road. 




My abiding memories of this experience are: cooking liver and onions in a Baby Belling; waking up at about three a.m. to loud static from the TV in the next room where the deaf landlord had fallen asleep; having to negotiate sharing a bathroom with people I never saw.  There was something about it which resonated with the opening chapter of George Orwell’s The Road to Wigan Pier…. The feeling of stagnant meaningless decay…. Labyrinthine slums and dark back kitchens with sickly, aging people creeping round and round them like blackbeetles….




My contact with the real world was found in the Union Inn, across the Stockport Road.  Here, where Boddingtons Beer (brewed in Strangeways; gives you strange ways) flowed in reliable quantity, if not quality, my friends included Spen, who had been imprisoned for manslaughter (as a serving soldier on leave he had punched a man he found sharing a bed with his wife; the man’s skull was thin….) and Martin, who, apart from his claim to sublet his night shift at Courtaulds – he paid someone younger to do his job while he read the paper and slept – went home early on Wednesdays to play strip chess with his wife….




Across the road, in what is now, since March this year, the Dice Lounge [15-20 people, Booking deposit: £100, Bottle of house prosecco: £20, Bottle of spirit: £25 plus a jug of energy drink, Includes: Table service, private room all night] was The Railway pub, just moments away from Levenshulme Railway station on The Street With No Name…..  It was here, in my time, that you could find Kendo Nagasaki, the less than talkative wrestler….. [In his heyday Kendo Nagasaki - brutal, silent and with a hint of Samurai savagery - was the most celebrated British wrestler of them all…. Simon Garfield: The Guardian, October 2001.]




I won’t dwell on this time of my life, for it remains something of a blur.  It seemed apposite, however, that when I re-entered the (virtually unchanged) Union Inn, after forty-four years, I found myself in the midst of a funeral wake…..




Throughout the winter and spring of that year I rode to work as pillion on a 250cc Suzuki piloted by a smart young chemistry teacher to whom I owe indelible gratitude.  But at the school I found myself drowning in a fool’s paradise reminiscent of passages from The Rainbow where an innocent attempts to control wilful creatures that have no inclination to follow any scheme of work whatsoever.  Paradoxically, at break times, finding the maths department’s total domination of the chess board in the staff room and everyone else’s jealous preservation of their tea mugs, I preferred the company of the feral beings in the playground.




I was not so sure of my allegiances when, during an interview at my first parents’ evening, smoke started billowing past the classroom window as the Sports’ Hall burned down.  Later, when one of my colleagues had his throat cut by an irate parent on the way to work, I began to wonder if teaching was for me, but then this was a school where Ian Brady had been personally known to pupils, parents and staff.




I didn’t have time to explore the centre of Manchester, but some of my pupils did.  A fair number of them were never present on Monday mornings, as they were in the courts following excitable behaviour on Saturday at either Maine Road or Old Trafford.  One particular truant, deemed unteachable by colleagues told me that when he wasn’t in school he went to the Central Library…. Oh yeah?  I thought, And what did you do there?  He browsed art books, he told me.  He particularly liked Bruegel.  Tell me about this?  He especially liked Landscape with the Fall of Icarus, he said, with the boy, whose wings have melted (because his dad made him fly too near the sun), falling into the sea while a boat sails on regardless, and a man ploughs the field without realising….





In Brueghel's Icarus, for instance: how everything turns away
Quite leisurely from the disaster; the ploughman
Have heard the splash, the forsaken cry,
But for him it was not an important failure; the sun shone
As it had to on the white legs disappearing into the green
Water, and the expensive delicate ship that must have seen
Something amazing, a boy falling out of the sky,
Had somewhere to get to and sailed calmly on...

Musée des Beaux Arts
W. H. Auden


Who needs education? I moved on that summer.  My future was not in The Union Inn, nor was I equipped to teach kids about a life about which I had no idea.




What remains of those times?  I remember the thick, grey air, thick with dirty water.  I remember skies like grey cardboard, damp and spongy.  If I walked down the street I would have to wipe off the grime when I got home.  I remember the scarred sites where back-to-backs had been wrecked ready for redevelopment in Moss Side




and Whalley Range, 




and the towering empty red brick warehouses in the centre, near the canals and railway stations…..  I have no contact with anyone from there and then, though, eerily, entering The Union Inn, it was almost (I will not exaggerate) almost, as if time had run down….




So Sally can wait
She knows it's too late as she's walking on by
My soul slides away
But don't look back in anger
Don't look back in anger
I heard you say

At least not today




NOEL GALLAGHER


Oasis - Don't Look Back In  Anger





2 December 2016

Cadair Idris - Snowdonia at its best

WELSH FIRE: IDRIS & CO







As I tentatively sip from a can of Idris Fiery Ginger Beer (Try me if you dare!!) sitting on a rock high in the RSPB Mawddach Vallley - Coed Garth Gell Reserve, it slowly dawns on me that rising majestically to the south is the source of this elixir.







The highest point of the six and a half mile long Cadair (sometimes spelled Cader) Idris ridge, in the middle of the range, is Pen y Gadair, which is 893 metres (2930 feet) above sea level; this is the top of the back of the Chair (from cadair, which itself derives from the latin cathedra) of Idris, who was a philosopher and poet Giant, who lived right here. Possibly this legend derives from the metaphorically great stature of King Idris ap Gwyddno of Meirionydd, who lived from 560 to 632 AD.








A pretty good story, which includes accounting for some of the boulders strewn on the slopes, said to be stones from his shoes. Anyway, this was enough to inspire Thomas Howell Williams (1842 - 1925), son of a Baptist Minister from Pembrokeshire, to found Idris & Co, soft drink manufacturer, in Camden Town, in 1873 (in 1967 the loss-making Idris was acquired by Beecham, which owned the Lucozade, Ribena and Corona soft drinks brands; then in 1987 the Beecham soft drinks business was acquired by Britvic). But even today, near the visitor centre at Minffordd, there is a ruined building said to be the original Idris laboratory.







Anyway, that's one of the reasons I suddenly feel fired to climb the mountain. Though I have another, unrelated desire, which is to test myself in preparation for the challenge I am committed to undertake to raise money for Alzheimer's Society next Spring, when I shall walk the 100 mile South Downs Way in five days.....




So, being a guest of aptly named old friend Hilly at her wonderful Rhuddallt (White Horses) on the Mawddach Estuary,




within sight of Barmouth railway bridge, I am perfectly poised to set out bright and early.  It is a glorious morning and the light is splendid.




Mist wreathes through the forest on the opposite slopes,




But it is going to be a glorious day. There is a hard frost, and as I approach Minffordd on the A 487 from Dolgellau the sky has cleared and I get a splendid view of Gau Graig at the north eastern end of the ridge. 







It is icy in the car park, and so I start well wrapped up, though within an hour my back is damp with sweat as I toil upwards in the sunlight.








The first part of the climb (which is 788 metres in total, over a distance of about four miles each way the route I take) is conveniently stepped, rising through an ancient oak woodland.








Then, having made a fairly serious error of judgement, I skirt a pine forest, making my way towards Mynydd Moel (863 metres) instead of taking the recommended trail that goes to the south of the supposedly bottomless (if you don't count Idris's bottom, which he rested here) corrie (cym) lake of Llyn Cau (which is actually 130 feet deep).








The reason I made this mistake was that from my map the path above Llyn Cau seemed fearfully steep, and I am no mountaineer. I thought the way I was going would be easier..... Sometimes we learn the hard way.....






Indeed, at first, the track was well made and, though steep, it was not scary.  







But, fairly soon, the path became a loose mess of rubble and not only was it hard going but it was increasingly steep, so it was certainly not a stroll in the park....








And looking back down, I suddenly felt slightly wobbly, my knees weakening step by step, my lungs regretting the second (I lie - it was the third that did it!) bottle of Prosecco we had opened the night before....







But I was determined, and before too long I was able to stand upright again, and to begin to enjoy the wonderful views,







And to appreciate just how steep the other way would have been (or so it seemed).....







And how perfectly glaciated Idris's Chair really is....








And, looking East and South, just how very flat the rest of Wales is (joke, Cadair Idris is only the 19th highest Welsh Mountain, even if it is the second best....)








Anyway, after about two and a half hours the summit was in sight, with a chap and his two dogs having beaten me to the Trig Point by sneaking up a different (easier?) way.  And note how the air swirls up, the updrafts like circles in a stick of rock.....








And so there I was, breathlessly clasping the Trig Point at 893 metres above the Mawddach....







But, after all that crisp morning clarity, the very top was shrouded in mist, and my views were not as crystalline as I had hoped....








Pretty damn fine though, considering what it could have been on November 30th!  This picture shows Coed Garth Gell, in the middle distance, from where I got the pictures the previous evening, and, just hidden behind the shoulder of the foothills, to the right of the buildings by the estuary, is Rhuddallt, where we are staying.








Still worried about the precipitous looks of the ridge around Llyn Cau, and the steepness of that path, I return the way I came, and stop for a rest and a picnic to take in the views.








It really is very fine.  And, with the exception of a couple of other solo wanderers (and the occasional ear-splitting roar of Tornados and Hawks flying out of RAF Valley and then round what is known as the Mach Loop, 




Passing below me as they turn hard left about 250 feet above the A 487 to Corris) - it is wonderfully peaceful,







If a little bleak,








And chilly.....








A couple of walkers catch me up, and tell me what I have missed by not attempting the horseshoe trail. Easier, I am told, than this track. Steep, the other says, but it's better going, and not exposed..... [I will have to come back and do it all again....] I hear how busy Snowdon would be, even at this time of year, and how this is more like a real mountain (no trains, no cafe!)  And then we part again, and they go their separate ways, leaving me to follow, keeping my eye out for the few birds there are  - Ravens, honking across the air, a sprinkling of Bramblings - too quick, or too distant, for me to frame.








And then, after six hours, weary but in one piece, I make it back to the car park. It was very hard in part, and I have been lucky with the weather, but I am glad I have done it.  It gives me confidence to know that even though I don't spend time in the gym, and I am by no means as fit as I should be, the prospect of walking the South Downs Way in five days in the spring is not an impossible task.  I will need to get in shape, but I can do it!




I get back to White Horses in time to catch the sun kissing the horizon. The perfect end to a perfect day......

Going.....





Going.....




Gone!




Time for a can of Welsh Fire!








By the way, should you wish to sponsor me for the South Downs Way in Spring 2017, please visit my JustGiving page
at



Thank you!