20 May 2016

New South Wales and Queensland, Australia: Flora and Fauna

JABBERWOCKY








"The time has come," the Walrus said,

"To talk of many things:
Of shoes--and ships--and sealing-wax-- 
Of cabbages--and kings--  
And why the sea is boiling hot-- 
And whether pigs have wings."






`Twas brillig, and the slithy toves
Did gyre and gimble in the wabe:

All mimsy were the borogoves,

And the mome raths outgrabe.







Certain ideas fix themselves in the mind, but where do they come from? I have just returned from Australia, where crocodiles and snakes and other scary things, wallowing in mangrove swamps and along undiscovered bournes, have been part of my expectations since I cannot remember when.....  But then, having got back home, I am reminded of another Australia, which I first learned about in this letter from my Uncle Robert in 1955.....







This was written on the reverse of two evening menus from the Peninsular and Oriental Steamer SS Strathmore that Robert was travelling on, to Australia....








Here is this second page, in full:








And here are those Rainbow Lorikeets as seen on an evening tree on my trip.....






All of this is part of my memorabilia and a reminder that all those years ago my Uncle Robert lived in Australia, fishing and building boats. I don't know much more than that, though I believe he was on the East Coast, perhaps near Cairns; but it could have been Perth.....  He is no longer around to ask.  I had almost forgotten these cards, but now it brings back the exotic nature of travel, then, and the colourful glories of the natural world.







So here, with a sideways glance at Lewis Carroll and the pinch-yourself fantasy of the world of magic, is a sample of some of Eastern Australia's flora and fauna that I saw on our recent trip......

This Sulphur-crested Cockatoo was enjoying a snack in Sydney's Botanical Garden....  They are noisy, busy birds, that don't worry too much about people.






While this one was resting in a palm tree on Hamilton Island....






Another common fearless bird is the Kookaburra, sometimes called the Laughing Kookaburra as its call resembles laughter.  It is a member of the Kingfisher family, though it is not really associated with water.






The Australian White Ibis has adapted to city life, and is not the most beautiful of birds when scavenging in streets, though in flight it is impressive.....







Its relative, the Straw-necked Ibis, is also known as the Farmers' Friend, after its enjoyment of insect pests.  






Another big-billed bird is the Pelican, seen here on the Hawkesbury River....







And yet another bird that fishes is the Australian Pied Cormorant, this one on the Daintree river....






Also on the Daintree river I saw this Great Egret







While I saw this Little Egret on Green Island, off Cairns....








The same island was crowded with Common Noddies, perching awkwardly in beachside trees and then swarming across the surface of the sea, before circling back and squabbling for resting places....  Not easy to perch with webbed feet!






I caught this Australasian Yellow Figbird fluting at the top of a tree in Daintree Village.  I heard it first, a strong, mellow call, reminiscent of the Golden Orioles I have seen in Tuscany. No surprise then to find that Figbirds are  Orioles, with characteristic yellows and greens - but quite a striking red mask!







I was also reminded of Italy when I identified Rainbow Bee-Eaters, relatives of which flock through Europe to and from Africa on their migrations. Also strikingly masked, this picture made me think that perhaps it was a Beef-eater, or was at least contemplating the added consonant?








And interesting head-gear marks out this Masked Lapwing, which is also known as the Spur-winged Plover, because of the sharp spurs protruding from its wings. The yellow mask is actually a wattle, which hangs down by its chin.  It is a relatively shy bird most of the time, but likes gardens, golf courses and airports, and can be very aggressive during the breeding season, with harsh calls and alarming swooping behaviour.....







The day Prince died, I saw this Purple Swamphen in Centennial Park, Sydney, tempting me to believe in reincarnation....







On the other hand this Australian Magpie seemed to be perfectly adjusted as a bird, making a living picking up crumbs under restaurant tables in the Whitsunday islands.....









Honeyeaters belong to a large family of attractive birds in Australia, but I am afraid I was at a loss to definitively identify this one in our friends' garden near Gordonvale; I think it's Yellow-spotted, but may well be wrong....








And then there are the delightful Olive-Backed Sunbirds, a bit like a honey-eater, but in a family with the spider-eater instead.....








During our trip I listed sightings of over 50 different birds, but, travelling light, and not carrying a high-spec telephoto lens, it wasn't always easy to get good pics.  I saw a lot of hawks, eagles and kites too along the roads when driving, but would still be in Queensland if I had stopped to catch them all!







While it's a bit obvious, birds are not the only flying creatures in Australia. But foxes don't normally hang upside down in trees, do they?






And this Flying Fox (Fruit Bat) was not alone.... During the day, they just hang out, wrapped in their umbrella-like wings.  Then, come dusk, they invade the darkling sky in a kind of IMAX slow-mo bat dance, staggering drunkenly about the night sky wolfing up any fruit that shows signs of ripening....  Strange Fruit?





At the other end of the winged scale, there are lots of butterflies....  Not to mention biting and stinging insects....







Though mercifully there are lots of spiders to catch them, and so all is well....








Though these arachnids are not without their foes up the food chain....








So it is nice to take a step back and admire the world of plants for a moment.... Trees in particular can be very colourful; this Callistemon (Bottle Brush) tree known as Spikey Rose, for example:







But others are just very very old, and very very big....  Like these 1,100 year old twin Kauri Pines at Lake Barrine in the Atherton Tablelands.....








Others just seem to be showing off... Like this Cathedral Fig Tree in the rain forest near Yungaburra in Northern Queensland....







Ultimately, the best you can say is that 'Twas brillig.....  Our experience was exciting and extraordinary, as you might expect on the other side of the world. 'Twas brillig - that just sums it up.....  And I expect it was just so for my Uncle, though his life thus far had not been uneventful (born in India, schooled in England, joined the US army, didn't like that much, so went to Canada where I think he joined the Canadian Air Force, then, on demob, became a lumberjack, and then lit out for the unknown in the antipodes....  Or did I just make that up?)













Strange now to realise that this dinner was on my father's 32nd birthday, (not that he was there!)






"And, has thou slain the Jabberwock?

Come to my arms, my beamish boy! 

O frabjous day! Callooh! Callay!' 
He chortled in his joy.








[It is also a curiosity that the SS Strathmore bears the same name as a pub I sometimes visit not far from my home in Hertfordshire, so named because it was originally built in 1858 as a house for Charlotte Bowes-Lyon (Lady Glamis). The Strathmore Estate lies at the heart of the Vale of Strathmore in Angus, Scotland, and has been in the Lyon family since 1372, when Sir John Lyon was granted the Thaneage of Glamis by King Robert II.  

Elizabeth Angela Marguerite Bowes-Lyon (4 August 1900 – 30 March 2002) was the wife of King George VI and the mother of Queen Elizabeth II.  She was Queen Consort of the United Kingdom from her husband's accession in 1936 until his death in 1952, after which she was known as Queen Elizabeth The Queen Mother.

Born into a family of British nobility as The Honourable Elizabeth Bowes-Lyon, she became Lady Elizabeth Bowes-Lyon when her father inherited the Scottish Earldom of Strathmore and Kinghorne in 1904.

Following the death of the Queen Mother, Danny Blackwell took over the pub..... But this really has nothing to do with the SS Strathmore, nor with anything else. It's just an excellent English pub.....]





Brillig!


13 May 2016

Queensland, Australia


The Dream of Wearing Shorts Forever:





The Dream of Wearing Shorts Forever:

To go home and wear shorts forever
in the enormous paddocks, in that warm climate,
…..

to be walking meditatively
among green timber, through the grassy forest
towards a calm sea
and looking across to more of that great island
and the further tropics

Les Murray




It took about four hours to fly from Sydney to Mackay (via Brisbane), the second flight being propeller driven, with entertainment provided by a group of children who were either destined for a boot camp or a consignment of crocodile fodder for one of the Queensland amusement parks.




Then, once we got to Mackay, I had to learn very quickly that automatic cars do not need two feet, unless you want your passengers to exit via the windscreen….





We started to get to know The Sunshine State….  One leaflet I picked up exhorted us to Journey astonishingly, explaining that From iconic places to close encounters with wildlife; from adrenalin-pumping adventures to camping escapes among sandy shore, mountain gullies and colourful deserts, Queensland’s parks have something for everyone…..




I also read, in Top tips for a great Queensland holidayBefore beginning a driving holiday, plan your trip….. 




Err, I mock not….  I did plan.  But perhaps I didn’t really take into account the scale of the map I had.  We had a great time – a fortnight of tropical delight – but my Toyota Corolla clocked 2,361 kms, much of which was on the Bruce Highway…..  Everywhere is far, in Australia.  Sarah, our younger daughter, had said she was moving to Mackay, near Brisbane Mackay is 1,000 kms from Brisbane




And when you are on the Bruce Highway, the scenery only changes slowly: after miles and miles of sugar cane, you get miles and miles of scrub spiked by Eucalyptus.  Overhead, various kites and eagles float in and out of your vision.  In the bush, occasional kangaroos vie for attention with various cattle.  Then, for a while, you see the sea…..  And every so often you cross a river, or a creek, or a bridge, or a creek…. Dead Man’s Creek, Alligator Creek, Crocodile Creek, Chinaman’s Creek, Five Mile Creek, Nine Mile Creek….. [And be aware, the Queensland Government  issue this warning… Swimming in creeks, lakes, rivers and dams is fun, but there are hidden dangers, which can cause serious injuries……  Be careful. It is not the same as swimming in a pool…..  Look out for crocodiles and other dangerous marine animals.]




Queensland has much to offer – snakes, spiders, crocodiles, cassowaries – but there is plenty of space.  It is nearly 8 times the size of the whole of the United Kingdom , though the UK has nearly 14 times as many people (which means that the UK has a population density 88 times that of Queensland).




So it takes a little getting used to!  But Eungella, an hour or so from Mackay, or the smug-druggling marina, or the historic Eimeo Pacific Hotel - an enviable reputation: “lunch with a million-dollar view“. It is has been in the same family for over 70 years; We acclimatize, gently perspiring in the heat, and topping up with 50 Lashes….




We drift up to Eungella, seeing no platypuses, but enjoying the rain forest, the views down the Pioneer River valley, and swimming in the Wheel of Fire Falls, up the Finch Hatton Gorge. 





We drive to Cardwell at the Beach, from where we take the forest drive and hike up to the Attie Creek Falls, before dropping down to the Spa Pool, where the water bubbles and swirls in the rain…..








Next stop is Cairns, via the Atherton Tableland, and the Waterfalls circuit, and some extraordinary fig trees.  We are looked after in great style by friends just off the once gated Gillies Highway, their garden filled with Honey Eaters and Sunbirds, their fridge filled with beer…..





Then Port Douglas, where the Sunday Market says buy me! With every hat, shirt, and honeyed banana…..  




Then Daintree, where the crocodiles are camera shy (I learnt to my cost that Crocodile Watching lacked a comma), 




but where our guide, whose grandmother settled here in 1901, exuded a certain local authority, especially when indicating a three metre long python….




We then went island hopping, from Green Island, a coral atoll off Cairns teeming with Chinese, and Common Noddies (no less beautiful for this), to Magnetic Island, so called because the buses suck all the metal from your pockets….  To Hamilton Island and the deluxe Whitsunday group.





Here, I have to say, as a celebrité manqué, I felt most at home.  Little reminds me more of home than a view of the tropics at sundown, palms swishing to the wingbeats of hungry cockatoos, fruit bats gently darkening the dusk, beers served in the middle of a swimming pool from a thatched bar with underwater stools….




We took a day trip to Whitehaven beach.  There was a storm breaking on the horizon, and I was struggling to squeeze myself into a stinger suit, but, even so, this was the most beautiful beach I’ve ever seen…..






Seven kilometres long, and is entirely squeaky white silica.  The sea is blue, and the beach is fringed with palms – there are NO buildings! 

The storm faded; sunshine broke through; we swam without getting stung. Then it was time to board our cruiser again, and leave the scene to the magic of a tropical evening.







On the way back to the marina, our skipper pointed out a house amongst the forest near to Catseye Beach, George Harrison’s house.  He used to like playing his guitar in the hut in the garden….

As a lifelong Beatles’ fan I was fascinated, even though George Harrison died (I cannot believe this) fifteen years ago.  He and his wife Olivia came here in the 1980s, when the island was undeveloped, and made themselves a hideaway – natural materials, thatched roofs, swimming pool through the lounge, no-one else around (George had been traumatised by Beatle mania and sought isolation).  Ironically, this beautiful refuge was eventually spoiled by the cruise boats going past reciting, And on your left you can see George Harrison’s house…..




However, after George’s death, the house, named Letsbeavenue (with thanks to Tommy Cooper) was left to decline, nature reclaiming it slowly, until a year or two ago it was sold for $8.5 million, though the sale was not without hitches.  The prospective buyer refused to accept sub-lease clauses imposed by the owners of the island, Hamilton Island Enterprises Limited…..




Which may perhaps explain why the Whitsunday islands are as close to paradise as I will ever get.  Despite the developments, they retain exclusivity.  Since George set up a retreat here, Nicole Kidman has followed suit, and, recently, Taylor Swift stayed for a while, befriending a Cockatoo and playing to a select 100 at the Yacht Club.




This is a special place to stay.  The Qualia Resort has apartments with private pools and personal butlers (at £1,000 a night B & B!)  We opted for the more modest Reef View Hotel and had a stunning view of palm fringed tropical seas from our balcony, as well as complimentary use of kayaks and sailboats, paddle boards and snorkeling gear.  




The top place to dine is the Yacht Club, designed by Walter Barda and opened in 2009, splendidly perched above the Marina with breathtaking views across Dent Passage.  Alternatively you could spend the evening at Italian-style Romano’s, or at the Marina Tavern, a lively place to take the family. 




The Whitsundays won’t be the same as when George and Olivia first set foot here, invitees to the Australian Grand Prix by their friend Jack Brabham, but they still aren’t far from paradise…..




Ah well, ‘tis good to dream….  Back to Airlie Beach, a quick wheel change (slow puncture – it happens) and thence back to Mackay, and more dog walking at sunset on the beach…. 




Les Murray knows a thing or two. It could be a lot worse, especially when the sun shines and you feel that it's good.....

To go home and wear shorts forever
in the enormous paddocks, in that warm climate,


The Dream of Wearing Shorts Forever:

Les Murray

 




Still my guitar gently weeps…..