Showing posts with label JMW Turner. Show all posts
Showing posts with label JMW Turner. Show all posts

20 July 2018

I Luv Thanet!

Traces of Eminence.....





Staying at the Walpole Bay Hotel and Museum, Margate (or rather Cliftonville) I are reminded of His Little Princeness, Oscar Wilde: This wallpaper and I are fighting a duel to the death. Either it goes or I do......

However, to be fair, I should perhaps be reminded of Tracey Emin (Who he?  Ed.) whose astonishing rise to pre-eminence amongst Royle Academicals (sic) is one of the wonders of Thanet.....




I mean,  Are Trace (sic again), was brought up here, and has since graced the Walpole Bay Hotel with a number of her increasingly numerous birthdays in their sprung floored ballsroom (next to the poolroom and the wunnerfool gents Uri Null....)




And, it goes without saying, T Race has shared her cake with mum and dad, et alios, in the discreet and salubrious dinning room (sic again).....




So much so, indeed, that this extraordinarily preserved (delicately scaffolded) hotel is constantly in demand from fitful daughters and hen partlets to this very day.....




But, let me think...  How did I get here?




There was a train.  There was Hernia Bay....




There was some beer, and then the long walk, all blood blisters, concrete and marshes, cheery youngsters pedalling against the tide, the Dickensian flatulence beyond their ken....




At Reculver we found Roman remains converted into Christian ruins.....  Art and architecture transmuted into navigational aids.....




Then the long concrete run towards Margate, past no end of jolly beach huts.....





Their locks gradually oxidising in the ozone....  

Continuously entertained by the graffiti, facilitated by the chalk from the crumbling cliffs and the lack of anything else for youngsters to do come dusk....

This one a triumph of understatement:




Chloe and the rest arnt  important


Who needs education?  As the writing on the crumbling wall of the Margate Lido says.....









We encounter a MerMan, one whose trajectory from King's Canterbury to destroying his hotel at Westgate and encouraging governmental investment in a block of flats has led to his immunity to Phytoplankton and Dinoflagellata....  His charm and clipped tones indicative of a limited integration with his estuarine neighbours....




Margate itself, visited earlier this year in respect of its strong and meaningful alliance with a Waste Land, is alive and well, in a sense.  Governmental short-term penny pinching meant that needy people were accommodated here to save on London rents, which, if you give that one moment of thought, begs the question of what next?  No jobs.....?

There are only so many crosswords you can do on a gallon of cider...






Margate is on the up, I am assured by one local resident.  But there is evidence to the contrary:







As if to prove something, Anthony Gormley has planted one of his cast iron forms on the rocks in front of the Turner Contemporary.  For an instant I muse on how well it might have survived the bombings in WWII, or the storms that shattered the pier and inundated the Lido....?








Margate, at least according to Timothy Spall, used to be a good place.  The light over Thanet was the best.....  And you could get here by boat in about eight hours from London.  

Quite what Mr Gormley has to do with this I don't know.  He has another one of these unapproachable individuals at Limehouse, and I am none the wiser....

Though I can connect with Mr Eliot, who, as I referred to in an earlier piece, found that he could connect nothing with nothing here on the sands....







I wonder if a metal detector might have helped?

As it is.  Life goes on.  Margate and arsenic survive....








And, at great expense, Dreamland has been resurrected....








Though, over at the Turner Contemporary, the exhibited Giraffe is not well.  And people seem not to care, preoccupied with some communal erudition.....








The primates are pensive......







Puzzled by the chaos of the world about them:








Though some find time, despite the ignorant humans behind them, to discuss the meaning of life, or, should I say, the emin of liff?








Much as might be considered over a pint at Fez, an eclectically stylish micro pub in the High Street.....








I dunno.  A dip in the tidal pool is needed:








I mean, what is Art?  What is this life, if full of care?  I sail up towards the sun above genteel, Dickensian Broadstairs, Icarus-like, and wonder, Ms Eminem, can you enlighten me at all?








As I wander the streets of Ramsgate, trying to find a signal, I somehow doubt it......








I kinda think, Ms Enema, that, what with your Tory politics, and belief in Brexit, your unmade bed, your embroidered tent (pity the Saatchis burned it, Ed.) and your house in France, that perhaps your view of life is not as simple as mine.....

But, hey. We can be friends. I know you snubbed me when our eyes met at The Golden Heart, Spitalfields. But you were too busy drinking black velvet with Gilbert and George, and our brief encounter never flourished....

Think again?  We could start a new tent, velcro on a new name or two, and sit watching the sun go down, as the Life Boat symbolically returns to Margate.....






As the empty Life Boat returns to Margate, as anxious watchers wait and pray, as the sun goes down.....




4 May 2018

Journeys with 'The Waste Land'

On Margate sands....




HURRY UP PLEASE IT'S TIME


Journeys with The Waste Land is the title of an exhibition at Turner Contemporary in Margate, though by the time you read this it will probably have closed.





On Margate Sands.
I can connect 

Nothing with nothing.

T.S. Eliot, The Waste Land

Journeys with 'The Waste Land' is a major exhibition exploring the significance of T.S. Eliot’s poem The Waste Land through the visual arts.

In 1921, T.S. Eliot spent a few weeks in Margate at a crucial moment in his career. He arrived in a fragile state, physically and mentally, and worked on The Waste Land sitting in the Nayland Rock shelter....




 on Margate Sands. 




The poem was published the following year, and proved to be a pivotal and influential modernist work, reflecting on the fractured world in the aftermath of the First World War as well as Eliot’s own personal crisis.








I have come to Margate to see this exhibition, and to explore the town, as, despite many personal crises and several wars, I have never been......







The little I knew of Margate was that J M W Turner (Timothy Spall) spent some time here, with Mrs Sophia Booth, a particularly accommodating landlady; the ashes of Jack Dodds (Michael Caine) are scattered off the end of the breakwater here at the end of Graham Swift's Last Orders; Tracey Emin was brung up here (sic); and Thanet (the area) is one of the most deprived in the UK (though there is no connection between this fact and the previous one: Mad Tracey from Margate.  Everyone's been there - an appliqué blanket, fabric from clothing provided by friends, 267 x 216 cms, executed in 1997 -  fetched £722,500 at Christie's Post-War and Contemporary Art Evening Auction on 16 October 2014).....







I don't know whether T S Eliot liked seafood, but I enjoy cockles with the camera-shy potential next Mayor of Margate, who tells me that the Japanese tourists (Margate is in the Japanese guide books) like their oysters.....






Inside Turner Contemporary I get to know some of the locals - in this case John Davies's My Ghosts.... (a collage of images significant to me - people loved and lost, those wronged, those missed....)







Before becoming involved in the artworks and objects chosen by The Waste Land Research Group.  It is a fascinating and rewarding collection, especially (for me) where illustrations link clearly with either the period of The Waste Land or they pick up on one of the themes, a good example being Edward Hopper's Night Windows, 1928....

The typist home at teatime, clears her breakfast, lights
Her stove, and lays out food in tins.....
On the divan are piled (at night her bed)
Stockings, slippers, camisoles and stays.








Or William Lionel Wyllie's The Goodwin Sands, 1874....

A current under sea
Picked his bones in whispers.  As he rose and fell
He passed the stages of his age and youth
Entering the whirlpool.







Or Paul Nash's The Shore, 1923


And along the Strand, up Queen Victoria Street,
O City city, I can sometimes hear
Beside a public bar in Lower Thames Street,
The pleasant whining of a mandoline
And a clatter and a chatter from within
Where fishermen lounge at noon.....








Your man himself is present, too, in this case painted by Edgar Holloway in 1934, when the artist himself was only 20.....








Though without the maestro's mandoline.....








It's a shame you may not see this exhibition, though I believe it will be re-staged somewhere else later this year....








But there's more to Margate than the shed by the shore....  The people, for instance.....








Scott, for example, is as friendly as can be at The Fez, and he rings down to The Lantern Cafe to make sure that Liz will be able to feed us.....








And indeed she is.  Her Bubble and Squeak, with egg and bacon, is a rare treat, especially as, with Carol's permission, she brings it in to us next door at The Harbour Arms......








Outside, in the rain, there's just time for a look round.  Pink seems to be the predominant colour:








Even the trees by the remarkable Tudor House are pink.....






And, despite it's patina of age, the 4.6 million shells in the Shell Grotto have a pink tinge.  No one knows how old this extraordinary place is (it was 'found' in 1835) but my guess is that it was the burial chamber of an Etruscan Pearly King.....








The Theatre Royal is the second oldest theatre in the country, which may be why Gerry and the Pacemakers performed here last year....







But all is not old, nor,

After the torchlight red on sweaty faces
After the frosty silence in the gardens
After the agony in stony places
The shouting and the crying.....

There is Yasmin.....







Who smiles, and chatters; who grew up here and loves the place and is just the best antidote to a Waste Land......

A woman drew her long black hair out tight
And fiddled whisper music on those strings....


Thank you Margate!





Waste Land?  What Waste Land?