Showing posts with label Dorset. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Dorset. Show all posts

2 May 2020

There are places I'll remember....

In My Life.....

Snelling's Haulage Yard, Copthorne, Spring 1959





There are places I'll remember
All my life, though some have changed
Some forever, not for better
Some have gone, and some remain
All these places had their moments
With lovers and friends, I still can recall 
Some are dead, and some are living 
In my life, I've loved them all



Edgington, 1951 - what wheels!


But of all these friends and lovers
There is no one compares with you
And these memories lose their meaning
When I think of love as something new



A Ladies' Man, 1951


Though I know I'll never lose affection
For people and things that went before
I know I'll often stop and think about them
In my life, I'll love you more



Tiddles, 30 Farlington Avenue, Autumn 1954


Though I know I'll never lose affection
For people and things that went before
I know I'll often stop and think about them
In my life I'll love you more



Bros, Farlington Ave, Portsmouth, 1954

In my life I'll love you more

John Lennon and Paul McCartney



One of the things I had on my list to do, before we were told to lock ourselves up and throw away the key, was to go through the archives of photos and letters etc that hold sensory signposts into the 'good' 'old' days.  So now I have time to review some of the pictures in my mother's albums which take me back to another world and recall places and people I love.....

It was a world of black and white, evidently.  I took none of these pictures, and cannot verify their veracity.....  I once claimed to my mother-in-law that mine was the first generation to grow up with a comprehensive photographic record.  This didn't go down well with Dorothy, but because I held on to the concept of cheap cameras etc I still thought I was right.

Now I look back at the pictures of my grandparents and their parents, and of Dorothy and Bernard, I realise my arrogance.

But, more concerning, perhaps, is to contemplate what my children's generation are going to think when it comes to fifty+ years from now.  They will have to interrogate millions of selfies and Facebook posts and billions of pixels to piece together a taste of their youth.

So....  Every silver nitrate lining has a cloud?

Anyway......

My first few steps were taken in a flat in the High Street of Old Portsmouth.  I remember looking out from the flat roof, where mum hung out the washing, seeing warships steaming in and out of the harbour.  Among these were three Russian Destroyers.  Subsequently mum took me and my big brother down for a look around - I remember a sailor chatting mum up and her laughter.  Possibly at the same time that Commander Buster Crab was losing his head in the murky waters beneath the hull.

We lived on the second or third floor, so mum had to park my deluxe perambulator in the stairwell and clamber up the wooden hill with me on her hip.  That summer we went to see her mum, at Edgington, her house at Cripps Corner, on the B2089 near Robertsbridge in East Sussex.  We must have gone there a few times before Grannie died in 1954, and I remember the house and garden well, with particularly vivid images of her two spaniels, her Bakelite telephone on the hall table where she also kept a set of Halma pawns which we played with in the evenings.

Just up the lane, opposite an orchard, lived her friend, Carew, whose house had a wheeled pump for water outside the backdoor. In the field at the back she kept a donkey, a Gypsy Caravan, and an old railway carriage in which resided Aunt Pil, of whom I remember her green eyeshade....

Edgington, 1951

From Portsmouth High Street  we moved up to 30 Farlington Avenue, Drayton, where we had a house, a garage and a garden.


30 Farlington Avenue, 1954


Mum must have taken this picture of Simon getting some kind of telling off.  A few minutes later, I guess, dad took this picture, Simon still chastened....


30 Farlington Avenue, 1954


I remember the place with much affection.  Not really the inside of the house, but the green corrugated iron roof of the coal store, and the recreation ground out the back (which is still there).  I went to my first school across that ground, and in spring and summer we would walk up it to Portsdown Hill and Fort Purbrook and Farlington Redoubt. I remember the poppies and the cornflowers, and Small Blue butterflies.  I loved the grass and the air, and a sense of freedom that faded as we returned home.

I remember starting school, first with Miss Williams, and then Solent Road infants, where as a result of a minor misdemeanour (itself the result of the coercion by a Nelson Munt type) a teacher made me sit inside the classroom and chalk out the numbers from 1 to 100 on a small board while the rest of the school ran round and round screaming in delight.  I remember the dining room, where a  foot once tripped me and sent me crashing to the floor with my peas and mash, the floor and skirting dusty with splinters. I remember walking Shirley, from the year above, to her home, mother concerned by my lateness.

I remember shopping with mum, at the butchers on Havant Road, with her ration book, and sawdust on the floor.  I remember the Rectory at the top of the hill, where I went to a birthday party and saw conjuring tricks.  Many years later I was to work with  Liz, in Rome, and even later to buy paintings from her brother, John Booth, who was Art Master at Eton....

One evening, at bath time, there was a strange chortling noise outside in the street.  Mum became excited and we were allowed to look  through the bathroom window. Dad had brought home Aggie - his first car: a splendid Armstrong Siddeley, running boards, green leather seats, walnut dashboard, and a tendency for the radiator to boil when going up hill.  It was probably a 1932 HP Saloon model, but I'm afraid her big end went long ago.....

Dad hooked the car up to a camping trailer and we rumbled down to Dorset for a summer holiday, on a site near Corfe Castle.  It wasn't unlike the kind of rough camp that wagon trains made in the movies, which could explain my life-long love of westerns.... Dad as John Wayne; me as Chill Wills perhaps?


Camping at Corfe, 1955
By the way, note the snake belt - very fashionable!


The bathroom was rudimentary.... But the experience was a stirling introduction to a simple life outdoors, and the Isle of Purbeck is still one of my favourite places....


Bathtime at Corfe, 1955


Dad had been to Worth Matravers as part of his RAF service - Radar it was.  So he took us back.  Without the camping gear, we stayed in Gulliver's Cottage, hard by the duck pond (and a short walk to the Square and Compass - and a long walk back)....


Worth Matravers, with Jamie Gough, 1957


The village was to be our holiday destination for several years and is deeply etched on my heart. We made friends there, and as a teenager I went back with Roy and Joe, and then, much later, with Amanda and our own girls.

After Gulliver's, we rented Sunnyside, at the head of the path down to Winspit. Here Tim joined us later in the fifties....


Sunnyside, Worth Matravers, 1959
Wot larks!


We would spend days at Studland, where the Commandoes were still practising with their landing craft while we were playing, swimming - and shivering....


Studland Bay, with the Reid children, 1955


Studland Bay, 1959


And at Kimmeridge, fishing for crabs with limpets for bait.... I should have capitalised on the smell of rotting rock, but wasn't into oil at the time....


Kimmeridge, 1958

As an Easter treat, in 1958, we went to Gloucestershire, and stayed in Woodbine Cottage, in the hamlet of Edge. 


Woodbine Cottage, Edge, 1958

I loved this place too, surrounded by green countryside, lanes with high banks, and hedged fields.  It sticks in my mind, especially perhaps, because the chimney caught fire, and dad tried to starve it with a board as scorching embers fell back before the heavy suited firemen arrived.  

From there we visited the Severn Wildfowl Trust, now the Wildfowl and Wetlands Trust, at Slimbridge, which Peter Scott had founded in 1946, at his home.


Nene (Hawaiian) Geese, Slimbridge, 1958

I have returned many times  to Slimbridge; I  think I owe my interest in birds to Peter Scott....

In the meantime, we had moved from Portsmouth to Northchurch, in Hertfordshire, where dad grew up.  His father was headmaster of the Village School and choirmaster and organist at the Parish Church.  We lived in Crowstone, a house with gardens back and front, and Mrs Ayers next door with chickens.  The house belonged, somehow, to my grandmother, and was a great place for kids.


Crowstone, Northchurch, 1958
Note long trouser and no chain guard


Simon and I used to ride our bikes down the lane opposite to the Grand Union Canal at Dudswell.  The Phillips family with 24 children, lived at a the farm there, and for some reason we had an antipathy to this tribe.  Perhaps they called at us as we rode by, perhaps they didn't have 24 bikes....?  Anyway, one time we decided to raid their yard, and rode in, daring them to react.  Simon, and I believe another friend, made good their getaway, but in my haste I trapped my right trouser cuff in the chain of my bike and became immobilised and terrified in the gateway.  I nearly wet myself as members of the extended Phillips family approached.  I remained petrified as they tended gently to me, helping me to release the oiled trouser from the cog, and encouraging me peacefully on my way.

Ten or more years later I stacked shelves in Sainsbury's in Berkhamsted, where Donald, one of the sons, was a butcher.  We got on famously.....

One other place that sits firmly in my memory is 10, St Ann's Road, Holland Park, London,  where mum's sister, Eve, lived with her husband Wilfred, and eventually several of my cousins.  


10, St Ann's Road, Holland Park, 1958

It's gentrified now, and the row of houses are smart and clean, but I have an abiding memory of the basement which used to flood after heavy rains.  I remember the dirty brown waters gurgling around the floor as we lifted rugs and furniture to avoid the worst.

Apart from that, it was the home of Tansy, my aunt's little dog, with whom we would play in the back garden while the grown-ups talked.

Another place that is engraved on my memory  is Copthorne, in Sussex.  Dad's parents, our Grannie and Grandad, had retired there, to Dunster, a red brick house with a detached garage for Grandad's maroon Standard 8 with a wind up windscreen.


Road testing a Dennis, Snelling's Haulage, Copthorne, 1959
(Or was it a Commer?)

Grannie was a Snelling, and almost everyone around was a relative. We took the train there (to Three Bridges or Horsham); later we steamed there in Aggie, stopping occasionally for me to be sick, while dad sang Green and Yellow Ones....

The Snelling family, Uncles Arthur and Harold, ran a haulage firm, supplying provisions to local farmers, who included several great aunts and uncles, and picking up milk in great sloshing churns.  Simon and I ran shotgun with the drivers on occasions, and in the meantime made dens out of sacks of pig and calf breeder nuts (sampling the produce when peckish).  It was heaven for boys in boiler suits and we would speed about in our imaginations in the lorries that didn't go....

At the end of the fifties, I suppose I began to feel different.  I had my own snake belt, Elvis was in all our minds, and, in 1960, Uncle Robert, mum's older brother, got married to Adrienne.  Somehow things were changing, and somehow they would never be the same again.....




At the beginning of mum's albums, she placed a cutting, probably with her first born in mind.





Hope springs eternal.....


By 1960 we had moved to Number 2 Boxwell Road, in Berkhamsted, Hertfordshire. I believe this move was also funded by Grannie Gibbs, but can't be sure.  Dad was a teacher, and mum was a housewife, so otherwise how could we afford a large house in a desirable town?

By curious coincidence, this was the house where dad had gone to school in ages past.  Mr and Mrs Popple had held their academy in the schoolroom at the back, which now became our playroom.  

But so, while Harold Macmillan struggled with the fallout of the 1957 'flu' epidemic (in which some 30,000 Britons died - when the population was 51,495,702) and as we struggled back from the Court cinema at night holding hands because we simply could not see each other in the smog, we grew and grew, and life unfolded.

Here are my brothers and me, in the garden of 2 Boxwell Road (with the Carter's house behind us) in Autumn 1960, looking back, looking inward, and looking forward.  I believe we may have been photographed by a Chemistry teacher, who later ended his own life with poison, but at this time held a Rolleiflex twin lens camera and caused my big bro to laugh....


2 Boxwell Road, Berkhamsted, Herts, Autumn 1960
(Note the snake belt)

Where had the fifties gone?  How can time slip so fluidly through our fingers?  The black and white, the innocence of childhood, the period of selfless and selfish love, was ebbing away, and fast. Tim, my 'little' bro, remembers this photo shoot and remembers envying my snake belt.  

But time will, eventually, heal all.....


Off I go...  Next stop, oblivion!


There are places I'll remember
All my life, though some have changed
Some forever, not for better
Some have gone, and some remain
All these places had their moments
With lovers and friends, I still can recall 
Some are dead, and some are living 
In my life, I've loved them all


John Lennon and Paul McCartney



31 July 2012

Dorset


The Isle of Purbeck - Worth Matravers




To be frank, Worth Matravers is not what it was..... but what's new?  I have known the village for over half a century, and have returned again and again, not because of any links with the inhabitants, but because of its feel, its location, my own memories, and, perhaps, its pub.  As a child I played in the duckpond, having water fights with other children staying, or living, here.  We walked down to Winspit, wary of the cows, frightened of the dark recesses of the quarries, and terrified of the slippery rocks and sucking waters.  We spent our days on Studland beach, where the wind whipped sand into the sandwiches while the commandoes practised with their landing craft.

Even fifty years ago, although there was still a great deal of quarrying and masonry in the area, Worth had probably already lost its identity.  It was, and is, a characterful and harmonious village; its position within sight of the Channel, within touch of strip lynchets, the terraces of early man's agriculture, is both elevating and intimate.  Now the lynch pins of the community, since the demise of the post office and village shop, are the Church of St Nicholas and the Square and Compass pub, defended by the same family (the Newmans) for well over a century, and defiant in its absolutely immaculate old world charm.  But no one quite knows how many houses are second homes, and certainly visitors outnumber residents throughout the summer (?) months.

The best reason to visit however is that from the car park you can take a number of walks which either take you onto the Jurassic Coast, literally in the foot steps of the dinosaurs, or across the Isle of Purbeck to the ruins of Corfe Castle, or to the sunny charms of seaside Swanage.

If you are a calloused and heavy duty walker, you probably arrive here towards the end of six weeks on the South Coast Path, but if you have not yet taken the luxury of early retirement you may be here for just a day or less.  So you need to venture out to St Alban's (aka St Aldhelm's) Head, past, or via if you have enough time and energy, Chapman's Pool, a horseshoe bay that would not look out of place on a Falkland Isle or perhaps in the Orkneys.  Seaweed and flat grey shingle abound here, and a few rusty corrugated iron shacks house fishing gear and secrets that it may be best not to know.

Walking here brings you close to the edge, literally, and exposed to the weather.  Most likely there will be a wind blowing off the sea, and quite possibly there will be mist or cloud or rain.  The dry stone walls offer little shelter, though sheep find them comforting when the squalls go mad, and local masons have recently added embellishments which recognise the elements.




There are views along the Jurassic coast, looking West towards Devon and East to Durlston Head.  The rock in some spots is hard and valuable purbeck stone, durable limestone that was used to fortify this coast in the Napoleonic Wars, but has also been used for churches, bridges, scultpures and was also prized for Palladian Villas and city palaces up and down the land.  At other points the cliffs are crumbly and insecure, and rockfalls and mudslides are not uncommon.  In fact, on July 25th this year a 20-metre stretch of the south-west coast path gave way and an estimated 400 tonnes of mud and rock fell from the top of the cliff on to the beach at Burton Bradstock, killing 22 year old Charlotte Blackman.


Even if the visibility is not great, the feeling of remoteness is strong and this perhaps works magic with the fossil finds that have been made along here, with ammonites and trilobites as common as garden snails, but traces of dinosaurs not being that rare.

The path dips and rises in a steeply stepped declivity, and then at 108 metres above sea level you come to a row of ex-coastguard cottages (now holiday lets) and the tiny (7.77m square), ancient St Aldhelm's Chapel.  When I first came here, it was dank and rank and had not been cared for for some time, but now there are regular services and a new Altar table, fashioned from local stone, was consecrated by Rowan Williams in July 2005 as part of the 1300th anniversary celebrations of the first Bishop of Sherborne, St Aldhelm, to whom the chapel is dedicated.  (In a corrupted version he also gave his name to the area, as St Alban's Head is derived from St Aldhelm.)  The existing structure is at least 800 years old, and may well have been built on an older religious site, though there is still some mystery about why a chapel was put in such an inhospitable place, and one theory is that it was used as a landmark for sailors, and had a beacon on the roof where there is now a cross.




Inside St Aldhelm's Chapel



Also on this headland there is what would seem to be a CoastGuard station, though it is in fact run by the National Coastwatch Institution (NCI http://www.nci.org.uk/) an entirely voluntary organisation keeping a visual watch along UK shores.  They currently have 46 stations and each one assists in the protection and preservation of life at sea and around the UK coastline. 

And within a few paces of this, is a memorial to the wartime radar research scientists with a plaque which Sir Bernard Lovell (who died this week aged 98) unveiled on October 27th 2001, "in the presence of Dr. Bill Penley and the veteran scientists who worked here during the war."







From here the coastal path gently slips down towards Winspit, close to the edge, and patrolled by gulls.  Then suddenly a great shape looms up and blocks the sun for a moment - an eagel?  A roc?  The gulls are furious and I grab for my camera.  No time to fit a telephoto lens I fire at the shape as it glides past.  What was it?  The standard lens seems to hold no clue, But, with the miracle of modern digital technology, we can actually see the brute: a Great Skua.



On the shore side there plenty of other birds, and skylarks twitter at me tempting my digital expertise, so here's one I caught with a beakful!

 

 

In the meantime, the humble Dunnock poses quite nicely for me, fluffing a little in the wind:


Another natural pleasure here lies in the proliferation of wild flowers.  Some of the land is owned by the National Trust, who have carefully controlled the grazing to enable native species to thrive. 


Winspit Quarries, on the Jurassic Coast

The water at Winspit


This rocky and inhospitable cove was once busy with quarry work and I can remember blasting when I was a kid.  Now the workings are left to incautious wild campers and the erosions of time.  But the rocks and the water continue their symphony in the endless ebb and flow of land and sea, swishing and sucking and splashing and smacking in a mesmerising antidote to the motorways and offices of our daily bread.





The Square and Compass pub
Worth Matravers



When my family first came to Worth Matravers for a summer holiday (we stayed in Gulliver's Cottage, just by the duck pond) over half a century ago my parents would occasionally slip up to the pub.  In those days children never entered, so many years passed before I got inside, but one of the great things is that really nothing much has changed.  One well known habitue of this inn was the painter Augustus John, who first frequented it before the First World War, but who was still around into the second half of the twentieth century (he died on October 31st 1961) and who may well have been there when I was a boy and who would still feel at home if he were to wander back. 

My dad was here before being posted to North Africa in 1943, as RAF Worth Matravers was a centre of radar research (as commemorated at St Albans Head) as he specialised in radar in the RAF in the Egypt and then Italy through 1944 and 1945, so he came here for briefing.  The sign for RAF Worth Matravers now hangs in the pub, but it's too late to reminisce with my dad.

Apart from the addition of the fossil museum, the pub still operates from a hatch and has two rooms.  Beer, and cider, is dispensed by gravity, the only food served is pie or pasty, and there is a long tradition of folk music performances.  It can be busy at times, with quite a lot of children, but there is also an ongoing Augustus John lookalike competition amongst local moustache wearers, and in the quieter hours it is timeless and peaceful - a place for contemplation and the near forgotten art of conversation. 




Tuesday, 31 July 2012 21:00 - 23:00

Tom Hitching and Greg Bartley (here seen at sound check!)





As I said, Worth Matravers is not what it was.  It might have been at its very best about 180 million years ago when peace-loving dinosaurs picknicked on the unspoilt coastline, or nestled in the folds of Seacombe bottom.  But then Worth Matravers is actually what it is, which is a place of harmony between man and the environment, where stone has been cut from the ground and piled into attractive and purposeful buildings, where walls protect and shelter animal and plant life, and where the casual visitor can exercise in the freshest of air and then rest and socialise in a near perfect public house, well worth the designation "World Heritage Site!"