Arrivederci, Roma

Arrivederci, Roma, Goodbye, au revoir

It is now nearly fifty years since I first set foot in Rome, and then it was only thirty years since the end of the Second World War.  How times change?  But then it is over two thousand years since the death of Julius Caesar.....  But who's counting?  Tomorrow may never come, so carpe diem, as someone once said.....

I get drunk drinking my tears.....

It's great to be back in the city.  I meet friends and visit old haunts. Some things haven't changed:

The Basilica of Saint Praxedes, or Santa Prassede

The Basilica of Santa Maria in Trastevere

There is a sunny positivity about the city.  I cannot help but smile:

All will be well

Even though some folk may have seen better days:

I walk past places that hold fond memories, like this restaurant on Via Panisperna, where the waiter and the chef played opera music on their radio while we ate and on one memorable night we pushed the chairs and tables back after dinner and danced to a harmonica for someone's birthday.....

And past Trajan's Forum, where in the early hours of a moonlit night, Antonio and I played hoopla with bicycle tyres over the broken columns:

By the Teatro di Marcello, which includes the Palazzo Savelli Orsini, I pay my respects to Iris Origo, author of War in the Val d'Orcia, who acquired this piece of history in the 1950s:

In Trastevere, close by where I used to live, I seek out the quietude of the forecourt of the Church of Santa Cecilia, who was martyred on this site:

Then, wandering past No 169 Via di San Francesco a Ripa, where I lived for seven years, I take a drink in the Caffè di Marzio, where my flatmate Malcolm Farr, Editor of the International Daily News at the time, was stabbed in the stomach one night.....

I wander down the Via della Lungara and detour into the Orto Botanico di Roma, ring necked parakeets (there weren't any of them in the 1970s) squawking in the palm trees, a puff of smoke drifting up over the Gianicolo from the 12 o'clock gun:

The bougainvillea gorgeously in flower and the acanthus modelling for Corinthian columns:

Near here Raphael wooed his baker's daughter while decorating the Villa Farnesina; then a few paces further along someone exploded a car bomb outside the Regina Coeli prison one night, coincidentally blowing me out of my bed - though it is quiet now as a breeze flutters the flags of Italy and the European Union......

Maderno's Fountain cools the Piazza in front of St Peter's, 

While tourists flock up and down the Via della Conciliazione (will the UK ever be reconciled?)

And gaze at the city from the heights of Castel Sant'Angelo (Hadrian's mausoleum) from where Benvenuto Cellini made a dramatic escape in 1537, with knotted linen and a leg-breaking jump to round it off.

Time for a little lunch......

Though not at Pierluigi's, which was founded in Piazza de’ Ricci as a small osteria by Umberto Pierluigi in 1938.  I had many wonderful fish lunches (the risotto all crema di scampi is still beautiful) here in the 70s and early 80s, but then Roberto Lisi took over and eventually transformed the small family-run trattoria into an expensive and refined restaurant, now managed with his son, Lorenzo.

No, long lunches in the heat of the day are part of my past, and a glass of fresh white wine and some light snacks are more my idea of heaven, as here at the Antica Enoteca, Via della Croce.  This too used to be a simple place where you could buy loose wine cooled in a marbled refrigerator - now it, like so many places, has gone up-market, but it is still a pleasant place for refreshment:

There is so much to see in Rome - a lifetime is not enough.  The Spanish Steps, next to the room where Keats died (and near the hotel where Tony Soprano met his caviar-infused fate) lead up from the Fontana della Barcaccia towards the Pincio and the gardens of the Villa Borghese:

Across town I bypass the crowds around the Colosseum:

And instead head for the relative peace (hardly a tourist to be seen) of the monumental ruins of the Terme di Caracalla, which is hosting a photographic exhibition (as well as preparing for the opera season - my dad saw Aida here in 1944, and I also saw her here in 1978, remarkable for her age.....)

This bath complex, covering 25 hectares (62 acres) was the second largest in Rome.  It was opened in the year 216 and remained operational until the mid sixth century.  The complex included two libraries (remember them?) and was built over some recently discovered Roman houses whose paintings were exquisite:

As it is some of the mosaic floors are immaculate, using tiny pieces of red and green porphyry, basalt and white and numidicum marbles:

But it is the enormous space that is breath-taking:

Dwarfing the likes of Mat Collishaw, Carlos Labrador, Cecil Beaton, Ilse Bing, Fosco Maraini,  and many more in the photo show:

Outside the sun rains down through the umbrella pines:

And I wander back to my hotel, past the Irish College, stopping briefly (the lovely cloister was closed) at the Basilica e Monastero Agostiniano Santi Quattro Coronati, the only fortified Abbey in Rome:

It is late afternoon, and still very warm, but beneath my room a never-ending procession is passing by, with much music and good cheer.  It is Rome Gay Pride 2024, and it dances its way past for almost two hours, happy in harmony and sunshine:

I am not sure what Mark Anthony would have made of it - perhaps he might have joined in?  Ovid would certainly have taken part....  But, hey!  times change.....

And the sun dims as the corteo disappears past Santa Maria Maggiore:

And night falls.  I will leave Rome again in the morning.  

So, Arrivederci Roma - Until we meet again......

Oh, I nearly forgot!  Someone scrawled a message on a wall for me!

Live and smile about your troubles - I love you Ric!

******

This post is dedicated to my daughter Sarah and my new son-in-law Marcel

Love to you both

Roma, Roma, Roma

Core de 'sta città

Unico grande amore

De tanta e tanta gente

C'hai fatto innammorà

Antonello Venditti

The Story of Rome

Someday everything's gonna be different......

Art is civilisation.  Without creative work our caves would still be undecorated, and we would never learn from the stories we hear, or see, or read.  Whether it is high art, sophisticated and subtle, or the puppetry of commerce is of minor significance.  Without art we would be nothing.  

These painted eyes from two and a half millennia ago are young in the history of the world, but date from about the time that Rome began to flourish, and it is this continuum that makes Rome so fascinating.  

Terracotta Head of a Woman,
First half of the fifth century BC

You don't need to be an art historian to enjoy what you see in Rome, but sometimes a little imagination and a brush with learning might help.  I met these two in the Villa Giulia, and hastily sketched them for my records.  Now I look at the picture though, I wonder, is she giving me the eye?  And is his right hand warning me off?  

Sarcophagi degli Sposi. c 525 BC
found at Cerveteri in 1881 (in 400 pieces)

The Etruscan civilisation predated the Roman Empire in central Italy, but the Rape of Lucretia by Lucius Tarquinius Superbus (how's that for egoism?) in about 510 BC brought about a reversal of fortunes for Etruscan kings and the Roman Republic was established.  In the meantime, the Greeks were producing some very fine art, combining stories from their mythology with exquisite craftsmanship.  I was attracted to this young woman in the Palazzo Massimo, but had to give way to the paramedics when I realised she had an arrow in her back.....

One of the 14 daughters of Niobe, struck in the back by an arrow
Greek sculpture from the 5th century BC, but found in the Horti Sallustiani

Terracotta, marble, bronze.... the artists of old knew all the tricks. This fight-scarred and weary boxer was created in Greece using the lost wax process (as also used by Henry Moore in the twentieth century). His ears, nose and cheeks bear the marks of his trade, and his deep eyes perhaps convey a slight puzzlement as to what brought him here.

Boxer at rest
Hellenistic, 2nd - 1st century BC
formerly in the Baths of Constantine

A similar expression I note on the visage of my old friend Antonio, whose twenty seven years at the British Embassy in Rome we celebrate in anticipation of his imminent retirement from the ring....

In the meantime, with the defeat of Anthony and Cleopatra at the Battle of Actium in 31 BC, Octavian, nephew to Julius Caesar, came to power in Rome.  In 27 BC, taking the title Augustus, he ushered in a period of stability that lasted over forty years - a lifetime then.

Emperor Augustus, Pontifex Maximus, 27 BC - 14 AD
A statue that emphasises his authority and piety

An idea of the continuity of Rome's architecture can be seen on the site of the Forum of Augustus, where layers of buildings are still occupied above the imperial remains....

The House of the Knights of Rhodes, 1470,
overlooking the Forum of Augustus(Originally reached by a stairway to the central door)

And also in the placing of this giant Bull's head by the central fountain of Michaelangelo's vast cloister in the Carthusian Monastery of Santa Maria degli Angeli, which was built over the ruins of the Baths of Diocletian.  Originally this head was one of five symbolic stone beasts in the Forum and Market of Trajan, built next to Augustus's Forum by Apollodorus of Damascus in 112 AD.

One of five colossal animal heads in the Great Cloister of Santa Maria Degli Angeli, designed by Michaelangelo.

Though the empire's days were numbered, its power, and its habits, lingered well into the Christian era, and bulls were still being slaughtered to Mithras several hundred years after the birth of Jesus. This marble bas relief still bears some of its original colour, the red being particularly striking....

Tauroctonia, 3rd century AD
Mithras slaughters a bull
from the Mithraeum of the Castra Perigrinorum

The period known as the Dark Ages, roughly between the fall of Rome in the 6th century to the Renaissance in the fourteenth century, would not have been completely without light, as many churches bear witness.  One particularly luminous place is the Chapel of San Zeno in the 9th century Basilica di Santa Prassede, originally commissioned by Pope Hadrian I in 780 AD, but completed by Paschal I in 822.  

Christ Pantocrator
Byzantine style mosaics, possibly influenced by those in Ravenna

And on the streets of the city ancient statues, such as this so-called Talking Statue of Madame Lucrezia which sits outside the Palazzo Venezia, where Mussolini had his office, held their own, despite the ignominies of time. 

Then, with the explosive power of the popes and the artistic rediscovery of antiquity, all hell (proverbially at least) broke loose in Rome and villas, palazzi, fountains, basilicas, erupted all over the place. Typical of the decorative development was the Villa Giulia, now home to the national museum of Etruscan art.  Here in the heat of the summer, Pope Julius would refresh himself and his cardinals in his nymphaeum, under the watchful eye of statues representing the rivers Tiber and Arno....

The River Arno
Statue in one of the niches of the Ninfeo of the Villa Giulia
Vasari, 1553

Elaborate expressions of grandeur became the flavour, and major basilicas such as that of Santa Maria Maggiore grew in magnificence. First commissioned by Pope Sixtus III in 431 (in the Dark Ages, NB) it was badly damaged in an earthquake in 1348, and it did not gain its current appearance internally until about 1630.  

The facade was added in 1743. Inside it is as peaceful as polychromatic marbles, triumphal arches, mosaics and statuary will allow, which is then confused by groups of reverent tourists and even nuns with cameras and smart phones.....

Sister takes a selfie
Santa Maria Maggiore

Even the statues have to pose.....

Smile please!  Taking photos of Pius IX
in the Confessional of Santa maria Maggiore

And the same is happening at the Arcibasilica di San Giovanni in Laterano, the Cathedral of the Diocese of Rome, and therefore the current Roman seat of Pope Francis, who will no doubt particularly like the bronze statues across the piazza.....

S Francesco waves at the Doctors of the Church atop S Giovanni in Laterano

And so, through baroque and rococo we reach a neo-classical age and the unification of Italy, when Vittorio Emanuele II got on his great wide harse in Piazza Venezia before the wrong (Brescian) white marble of the Altare della Patria.....

Winged Victory and her team of four atop the Vittoriano

The dome of St Peter's is in the background

And through all these centuries, inspired by or despite the art, life has gone on.  Gentlemen exchange pleasantries, 

The elegant relax

Policemen lean on counters, their guns safely holstered.....

Tourists pose for portraitists,

Or cruise the streets,

Children attend their schools, their walls discreetly signed,

Nursery School

Some adults speed from work, 

While others take their rest,

Which reminds me of the bruised boxer, from so many centuries past,

Boxer at rest
Hellenistic, 2nd - 1st century BC
formerly in the Baths of Constantine

I, in my comparative ease, take a little lunch, as Romans do,

L'Antica Enoteca
Via Della Croce

And then a coffee, grecian style,

Antico Caffe Greco (1760)
Via dei Condotti

And then admire the true citizens of Rome,

Later, as the sky tinges over the Marian Column (1614) in front of Santa Maria Maggiore, Rome takes on a different guise.  In one way it becomes more ancient, as some of the signs of modernism are obscured. In other ways the electricity of the 21st century burns the past and the city whirls into a new kind of obscurity.....

I repair to one of my old haunts, to track down my friend Gino in his bottled hideaway....

The Fiddler's Elbow
Via dell'Olmata

Later still, I wander past Harry's Bar, vaguely wondering what it might cost to dine there.  It is in a wonderful location, with the Porta Pinciana piercing the Aurelian Wall at Piazza Brasile, with the great park of the Villa Borghese beyond.  In the war, my father wandered here with his pals; in the 60's Marcello Mastroianni popped his flashbulbs here in La Dolce Vita.  Now the traffic has soured the air, and somehow the romance has gone....

And indeed on my way back to my lodging lights are flashing as an accident blocks the street. Roman traffic is chaotic.  The city is being buried under parked cars, and to drive here is to dice with the devil. 

Dylan sings that The streets of Rome are filled with rubble..... Some of this can be cleared, and some, like the Sarcophagi degli Sposi, can be painstakingly reconstructed, to reappear almost as good as new.  Whether the rubble is the detritus of centuries of city life, or the shards of splintered glass from a wrecked motorbike, Rome both fascinates and repels, as, I imagine, it always has.

In case of glass, break fire....

Sarcophagi degli Sposi. c 525 BC
found at Cerveteri in 1881 (in 400 pieces)

Someday everything's gonna be different....

And when it is, I will paint my masterpiece.  

Civilisation is Art.  

But I still have a long way to go.....

A dances with her shadow on the Pincio.....